THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATIONS 

 

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT 'WIRE WORK'

CROWNS, TIARAS & HEAD-DRESS DESIGNS

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT

'WIRE WORK' MASK DESIGNS

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT 'WIRE WORK'

CHOKERS & WRIST CUFF DESIGNS

~ ALL ORIGINAL DESIGN CONCEPTS Copyright Chantal Mallett.

 

 

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT 'WIRE WORK' CROWNS, TIARAS & HEAD-DRESS DESIGNS

 

THE SEED OF AN IDEA :

The fashion for wedding crowns & coronets started with my designs.

I made my first pieces with no intention of marketing them, simply, they were made to accessorise my wedding gown designs for a photo shoot. At the time the vogue for wedding head attire was for garlands of flowers (think  'Duck Face' in Four weddings & a Funeral) worn with a veil ~ a look that done right could look gorgeous with the right dress but not the look I envisaged with my designs. I was & am very much in to imagery reminiscent of fairytales & medieval, Elizabethan & 18th Century costume.

Tiaras had begun to penetrate the wedding market & there were some makers creating nice designs but they too didn't 'fit' with my design concept. I wanted photographs of Queens & Cinderella-esque Fairytale Princesses so I decided to design & make my own crowns & head-dresses for the shoot using variations on wire work techniques I had been messing around with since I had been at school. The resulting photographs got the attention of the wedding magazines, advertising staff would admire the crowns when I placed adverts & ask who had made them & when a member of the fashion team at You & Your Wedding Magazine saw my photographs, she too asked where the crowns had come from & if the magazine could call something in for a photo shoot? As 'crowns & coronets' were significantly different from floral wreaths & traditional tiaras & wedding magazines tend to shy away from 'too different', she asked if I could make a tiara?  Personally I have never particularly liked traditional tiara designs, there were already tiara makers who apparently did like this style & were supplying the magazines with pieces so I suggested a compromise ~ a half crown / tiara (the closest I was willing to stray into tiara territory at the time). The piece I made up for the magazine was my  Baby Princess Tiara design which they apparently liked a lot, as a few months later it was gracing the magazine's cover on newsagents stands.

It was not until this conversation that I had given any thought to the commercial potential of my head-dress creations- they were very different to the tiaras & floral garlands which were the fashionable wedding head-dresses of choice & I had a hard enough time getting magazines to take my corseted wedding gowns for shoots because they too were 'too different' & didn't look like seven other designer's dresses to feature in photo shoot line ups. However I decided it was worth exploring the idea further, I built up the collection with some new designs & did the grand tour of the wedding magazines & at each magazine the collection was met with similar enthusiasm. Fashion Editors practically snatched them out of my hands & I even had to say 'no' to lending certain pieces because other magazines wanted them for photo shoots at the same time. I was surprised by the response but realise now that the difference between accessories & dresses is that where my wedding gowns can be too much of a statement for some people, my accessory designs are just enough of a statement.

As you can imagine, the designs have had much publicity over the years & are regularly featured in the fashion pages & on the covers of bridal pulications.

A selection of covers & editorial.

 

THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE DESIGNS :

My designs are influenced by my love of Gothic architecture (GAUDI is my favourite architect & I have a piece named after him), wrought iron work, corsets, art nouveau & the Rococo period, mixed with a good dose of myth, magic & fairytale ~ the pieces all have a structure & precision to them combined with delicacy, softness & curves. Inevitably there is also a cross over from my gown work & interest in other forms of art & crafts, so new crystals, beads, techniques, etc. from these other fields can easily end up worked into or influencing new accessory designs.  

My bridal gown designs are still the spring board behind many of the more elaborate pieces I create for my accessory collection, for instance I will be making a new sample gown called Papillion in pink silk & have made a beautiful crystal butterfly comb to accessorise it.

 

 

Other pieces are inspired by new materials I discover or a new technique or idea that comes to mind & some pieces come about by accident. For example my Fauna Crown which was originally going to be a four leaf crown inspired by Aurora  but did not look right & as a result the design was reconsidered & inspired by the unusual base structure, I created Fauna, an organic design that grows from the base into pretty foliage & twig motifs.

 

Aurora Crown, original Fauna design idea, Fauna Crown.

 

I have also embraced the concept of tiaras / half crowns a little more but refuse to get too traditional & crowns / coronets still form the largest portion of my collection. I also make Spanish style combs, designs based on alice bands (though, again, I steer clear of traditional alice band designs ~ possibly because I had to wear an alice band as part of my school uniform) & other forms of head-dresses as well as Venetian style masks, chokers, etc.

 

MORE ABOUT THE PIECES THEMSELVES :

Spun from different gauges of wire, pearls, glass beads & crystals like a spider's web, I personally hand make each piece to order & modify the colours, beads & designs, where required, to perfectly compliment the client's gown design. My experience making wedding gowns, styling my photographs from head to toe & ability to dress hair puts me in a unique position to really be able to advise my accessory clients on which pieces & hairstyles will both suit them the best & work with their dress designs & colour/design themes.

The influence of my wedding gown work also extends to the way I make my pieces & the concept behind them. Designing wedding gowns is very creative but making wedding gowns involves a completely different set of skills (skills in part inherited from my Father who is an Engineer) ~ you have to be able to translate your idea into a pattern, get the balance & proportions just right & when making corsets a great deal of discipline is required. When I began making those first crowns, these skills put me in good stead. When I make up a new crown design for example I know how I intend the hair to be worn & the style dress the pieces would compliment & this enables me to work out the best dimensions which I then make up as a frame to exact measurements with the same precision & build concept that I have learned from making corsets, in fact you can see the influence of corsets in my designs as the frames are all reminiscent of a corset's framework: 

As with my bridal gowns, the quality & care I take in making each piece is second to none & shows in the finish. My clash of engineering & creativity skills also means everything I make not only looks good but works (the best designs are always a marriage of looks & function) ~ though they may look fragile & delicate the structure gives each piece strength & my pieces will survive the odd knock or being dropped (it's always fun to see the look of horror on a clients face when they accidentally drop a head-dress & imagine they've just ruined it).

 

COMPETITION:

There are cheaper copies & hybrids of my head-dress & mask designs around & plenty of  makers only too willing to cash in on the success of my designs but with all these copies the emphasis is on making a copy & making it quick. The results never capture the magic of my pieces & are often so badly made, not only are they wobbly & uneven but you could also crush them in your hand. Also, & this both amuses & irritates me beyond belief, when you see these pieces on stands at wedding shows the width to height proportions are always so wrong & when I have a little fun on these stands & fain interest, popping them on my head, pilling my hair up behind them, I inevitably get the same response "oh, that looks good, I never thought of them being worn like that" & it takes me all my self control not to say "Doh! Of course you didn't because you didn't design it did you?!", I will also be invited to send them a pictures of the crown I want them to make, if they do not have anything that is 'quite right', real designers don't do that. I've even had a bride come on to my stand at a show & tell me they admire my crowns but that they don't suit them & with my stand model starring at me with a look of horror on her face, I replied "Well, that's because you've been trying on copies of my crowns, you haven't tried mine" (designers voicing their irritation with breaches of 'copyright' for some reason is a big no no but to my mind, I respect other designer's work, I don't copy & I expect the same courtesy & too many of these companies are all about making a quick buck). Two minutes later, with her hair pulled up to suit her face & the right crown on, it was a totally different story & a few weeks later a £300 order & that's really the difference, with many makers they just do not have the design skills, the make up skills, the desire to create a beautiful object or willingness to put in the hours  ~ my accessories are my original designs, a crown averages 10 hours to make, some 18+ hours & it shows in the quality & service I provide. They may be much imitated but these designs are without equal & remain the best in the market & a future heirloom to every bride who owns one.

There are few head-dress companies creating original works that rival my own in terms of quality & design, I would however recommend Slim Barrett, who made Victoria Beckam's wedding crown, if my designs are not to your taste.

 

 

 

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT 'WIRE WORK' MASK DESIGNS

 

I fell in love with the idea of masks as an accessory when I first went to Venice ~ the 18th century has always been an inspirational historical period to me & modern day Venice is all about celebrating the 18th century! Stunning architecture, dreamy canals, romantic bridges, elegant vistas, antique shops, stores selling hand bound books & hand made paper, beautiful fabric furnishings, reproductions of rich & innovative silks originally created by Fortuni, Murano glass chandeliers & dozens of boutiques selling colourful papier mache masks. I spent days trailing around mask shops choosing just the right one to buy & had a ball trying them on! It was my first trip to Venice, I had seen Venice in photographs, travel programs & in films yet had never really imagined how wonderful it would be or how at home I would feel in this city ~ not until I saw Venice in the flesh had it even occurred to me how in keeping my design style was with this city & how it would draw me back time & time again. Strangely, for a person that would spend every waking moment floating around the little streets of this amazing place if she could, I found my first four days of Venice too much & though I had loved everything I had seen, I flew home suffering an extreme case of sensory overload ~ four days was toooooooooo long, my feet hurt & my head hurt from the horrible bout of flu Venice had given me within hours of my arrival ~ I just wanted to go home :(

To read about 18th Century Venice, the masks, the Carnivale, the gambling, the flirting, Casanova, click here.

Venice, however creeps under your skin (I miss Venice when I'm not there) & within the year I was back enjoying Carnivale wearing the masks I had been inspired to create on my first visit.

When I had returned home, crawled into my own bed & got rid of my flu, I began to reflect on my trip & discovered Venice had really fired up my creative juices. I considered the masks I had bought & wondered if I could create a finer, delicate face mask in the style of my head-dresses by using my wire work technique (with the idea being that the mask would enhance a beautiful face rather than hide it). I really didn't think I would be able to make a version that could be moulded to the contours of the face & hold it's shape & I didn't want to make something that couldn't stand up to being worn or was a flat shape wired to a stick (I have seen a mask, inspired by my Mask II which was created as a flat shape with huge eye holes & was fitted onto a stick & I was right, it looks awful!).

My first piece was the design marked  Mask III- I put a lot of thought into making it in a way that would build strength into the design especially in areas that required a lot of shaping & Mask III is probably my most filled in Mask, as I was being cautious. Even I was very surprised at how well it turned out & even more surprised that I have been able to refine the design to more open, delicate versions that still work. When I look at the masks I bought from Venice in comparison, I still love them but cannot believe how heavy & different they look! Of course if you advertise & publicise any new idea, your work inevitably leads to head-dress makers making 'inspired by' versions or hybrids of my designs but what I have always prided myself on is making beautiful things that are also practical - they must fit & they must stand up to the job & other makers do not seem to have grasped that the engineering behind the design has to be right & that the way it is constructed is part of what makes it look beautiful.

All my masks are hand made & though they look very delicate they are quite robust & comfortable as they are shaped properly to fit the contours of a face ~ they are also very good for making noses look nicer & hiding wrinkles - as my 54 (at the time) year old Mother pointed out to me when she wore one of my designs to Venice for Carnivale a few years ago ;)

You've never seen a daughter drag a Mother away to the safety of a cafe quicker than the night my Mother & I walked into St Marks Square in full make-up, hair piled high & dressed with flowers & feathers, wearing my masks & other jewellery ~ we looked good! Not only did we experience an awful lot of male attention & a lot of "Mucha Bella" but within minutes a Father & Son were making a bee line for us! My Mother thought it was great fun but really! Anyway, safer & less embarrassing fun was had in Cafe Florians where we ended up spending the evening hanging out with two members of a film crew (sound & camera men) that were working on a Mike Figgis film over on the Lido ~ we could have been extras but had to go home darlings!

Carnivale:

 

My Mother at a Venetian Party.

 

 

Masks look great but don't gossip with an American in a veil - these two had the memories of goldfish (though alcohol was involved too).

They did this twice! Funny ~ but don't abuse the mask!

 

No mask but here I am at Carnivale,  embracing the 'Sophisticated Goth' in me + you would of wondered where I was in this line up.

(I'm more of a behind the camera type).

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I'm sure by now, you have realised just how beautiful these masks can make a woman look & feel ~ when you wear one of my masks,  you certainly turn heads. I keep seeing these wonderful ball scenes like the one in Phantom of the Opera & see all the Venetian masks & wish the costume departments had thrown their net a bit further a field, as my masks would have looked stunning in a film like that!

 ~ Costume departments take note please ~

The irony is that these masks look better than any masks you will have seen on the big screen but then that in itself it reason enough for owning one, yet only a handful of woman have ever experienced how lovely it is to wear one. As with so many of those wonderful discoveries we make ~ a designer in a tiny boutique somewhere making fabulous shoes, unusual bags, etc., what makes these masks so desirable is how unique each piece is & how few Chantal Mallett pieces will ever be in circulation.

 

 
 

THE STORY BEHIND THE CREATION OF THE CHANTAL MALLETT 'WIRE WORK' CHOKERS & WRIST CUFF DESIGNS

 

THROAT CORSET:

The creation of my throat corset design was a result of a challenge I set myself. Friends who had seen my new mask designs were encouraging me to make necklaces / chokers but I did not want to string beads together & create traditional neck pieces & besides there were plenty of gorgeous pieces already available in the market place & stringing beads did not present a challenge.

After mulling the idea of a choker over for a while I decided to come up with a design that would be the perfect choker for me & the perfect signature piece for my accessory collection. I based the design on the following factors:

  1. I like my chokers very ornate & very deep.
  2. I love things that come right up around the neck & under the chin to frame the face, like polonecks & high fur collars.
  3. I liked the way Audrey Hepburn looked in the ball scene in My Fair lady & the neck on the pink dress she wore in the closing scene.
  4. I have always liked the idea of the Elizabethan ruffs.
  5. I love 'wicked queen' collars like in Disney's Snow White. 
  6. I also have always likes the high necks & look of Edwardian women's clothing.
  7. I like the winged collars on men's dress shirts.
  8. I wanted this signature piece to be a marriage of my bridal gown work & accessory work, as corsets were my signature within the bridal wear field, it seemed only right to use a corset structure for the choker design & a corset seemed to encapsulate all my ideas perfectly.

I also drew inspiration from my Antennae Combs design & Venetian mask III & created a piece that would match my sample's colour ways & the Swarovski crystal embellishments:

 

 

The resulting piece, which you can see by clicking here , was made up of spines of wire arranged in a similar way to corset boning, shaped to the neck & splaying out onto the shoulders & filled in with finer wire & crystals. In keeping with the corset theme, the throat corset laces up the throat to close. This is a decorative piece so unlike corsets, the idea is not to 'tight lace' & the piece was made to be worn comfortably.

 

CORSET CUFF:

The Corset Cuff design was a natural progression of the throat corset & was made to complement a head-dress for an accessory client. I have since also made a choker for an accessory client based on the cuff design.

 

 
COPYRIGHT:

All the accessories are copyrighted to Chantal Mallett & are original designs ~ my accessory designs have always been about new ideas, new ways of creating things & innovation & the masks, crowns, tiaras, head-dresses, throat corset, choker, corset cuff, etc. are all completely original design concepts & were designed & made by myself first ~ they are my intellectual property ~ similar designs from other makers will therefor be 'inspired by', 'hybrids of' or copies of my works.